INTRODUCTION TO FACIAL COSMETICS
Part 1: Introduction, Types of facial cream
Cosmetic is a Greek word which means to 'adorn' (addition of something decorative to a person or a thing). It may be defined as a substance which comes in contact with various parts of the human body like skin, hair, nail, lips, teeth, and mucous membranes etc, Cosmetic substances help in improving or changing the outward show of the body and also masks the odour of the body. It protects the skin and keeps it in good condition. In general, cosmetics are external preparations which are applied on the external parts the body.
Facial Makeup Products are products that are used to color and highlight facial features. They can either directly add or alter color or can be applied over a foundation that serves to make the color even and smooth.
Various Facial Cosmetics are:
- Cream
- Eye makeup preparations
- Shaving preparations
CREAM
Creams are semi-solid emulsions which contain mixtures of oil and water. Their consistency varies between liquids and solids.
Creams are classified according to their functions. They are:
- Cleansing creams
- Cold Creams.
- Foundation and vanishing Creams.
- Night and Massage Creams.
- Hand and Body Creams.
- Moisturising cream
- All-purpose Creams
CLEANSING CREAM:
They are used for the purpose of removing makeup, surface grime (layer of dirt on skin) and secretions of skin from the face respectively.
Properties:
- They are easy to apply.
- They spread easily on the skin.
- They are pleasant in appearance.
- They cause less irritation to the skin.
- They should melt or liquefy when applied on to the skin.
- They should produce flushing action on skin and its pore openings.
- They should form an emollient film on the skin after application.
- They should not make skin dry which happens in case, when the skin is washed with water and soap.
- They should remove chemicals of facial makeup effectively.
- They should remove solidified oil, sebum, sebum plaques and surface oil layer from the skin.
- They also help in softening, lubricating and protecting skin apart from cleansing purposes.
Cleansing creams are of two types. They are:
- Bees wax-borax type / Emulsified type: It is an oil-in water type of emulsion, in which high percentage of mineral oil is present. This mineral oil helps in imparting cleansing property. It is white, lustrous and good consistency.
- Liquefying type: This type of creams consist of a mixture of oil and water which are translucent in nature. They are translucent in nature .they are anhydrous creams with thixotropic character i.e., they liquefy when applied on skin.
E.g. Of Formulation:
Bees wax-borax type / Emulsified type:
Mineral oil, isopropyl myristate, acetoglyceride, petroleum jelly and bees wax heated to a temperature of about 75°C in a separate glass container (ingredients having least melting point are melted first and then high melting point ingredients are melted). This is mixture A.
In other glass container borax and water are heated to same temperature i.e., 75°C.preservatives are dissolved in water before heating. This is mixture B.
Mixture B is added to the mixture A slowly, along with continuous stirring. Stirring carried out until a thick stable emulsion is formed.
Perfume is added to the preparation when it attains a temperature of 35°C and stirring is carried out.
Then the preparation is passed through a triple roller mill for milling purpose.
Preparation is transferred and stored in a suitable container.
Liquefying type:
Mineral oil, petrolatum and ozokerite wax are heated together to a temperature of about 65°C (First ozokerite wax is melted followed by petrolatum and mineral oil).
The above mixture is cooled along with continuous stirring.
Preservative and perfume are added to the mixture after it attains a temperature of 40° C.
Then the preparation is transferred and stored in a container.
COLD CREAM:
Cold cream is an emulsion of water and certain fats, usually including beeswax and various scent agents, designed to smooth skin and remove makeup. They produce cooling sensation by the evaporation of water, after application of cream to the skin. They should possess emollient action and the layer left on the skin after application should be non-occlusive.
E.g. Of Formulation:
Beeswax is melted in a container by using water bath to a temperature of about 70° C.
Then mineral oil is added to the melted beeswax. This is mixture A.
In another container, water is heated to a temperature of about 70° C and borax is dissolved in it. This is mixture B.
Mixture B (aqueous phase) is added slowly to mixture A (oily phase) along with stirring. Stirring is carried out until a creamy emulsion is formed.
Finally, perfume is added to the preparation when it attains a temperature of about 40°C.
VANISHING CREAM:
These creams are also referred to as 'Day Creams' as they are applied during day times. These creams provide emollient as well as protective action to the skin against environmental conditions by- forming a semi-occlusive residual-film. This film is neither greasy nor oily. They are oil in water type of emulsion. When applied on the surface of skin, they spread as thin oil less film which is not visible to the naked eye. Hence, they are called as vanishing creams. They are used to hold powder on the skin as well as to improve adhesion.
Ideal Properties are:
• It should have high melting point.
• It should be pure white in colour.
• It should possess very little odour.
• It should have less number of iodine.
Ingredients required:
- Main ingredient- E.g. stearic acid
- Humectants- E.g. glycerin, sorbitol, propylene glycol
- Alkali- E.g.
(a) Potassium hydroxide- It imparts fine texture and consistency without providing harshness
(b) Sodium hydroxide- It is used in combination with potassium hydroxide because it forms hard cream, when used alone.
(c) Carbonates- They are widely used, because they carbon dioxide due to this, creams become spongy.
(d) Ammonia- It is effective, but difficult to handle because of odour and volatility. it is also make cream yellow in color with age.
(e) Borax- It is used in combination with potassium hydroxide to produce a white emulsion.
- Emulsifying agent- E.g. triethanolamine soap, Amino glycol soap or Glyceryl monostearate
- Purified water (i.e., distilled and deionized)- It provides stability to the cream. If hard water is used, it leads to the formation of soaps of lime and magnesium, which causes inversion of emulsion and hence stability is reduced.
- Preservatives- E.g. methyl paraben and propyl paraben- They prevent deterioration cause by bacteria or fungi.
- Perfume- E.g. geranium, sandal wood, lavender oil, terpineol etc- They should be added when the cream attains a temperature of about 40°c. It provides odour to the cream and also has aesthetic value.
E.g. of formula
Stearic acid is melted in a container by using water bath.
Potassium hydroxide is dissolved in water and then glycerin is added. This mixture is heated to a temperature of about 75' C. This is aqueous phase.
Slowly aqueous phase is added to melted stearic acid along with continuous stirring.
Perfume is added to the preparation when it attains a temperature of 40° C.
FOUNDATION CREAM:
They provide emollient base or foundation to the skin. They are applied before applying face powder or other preparations of make-up.
Ideal Properties are:
• Adhesion of powder to the skin is improved by these creams, as they possess good holding capacity.
• They should be easily spread on the skin.
• They should be non-greasy in nature.
• They should be capable of leaving a non-occlusive film on the skin after application.
These are of two types:
(i) Pigmented Foundation Creams: They are colored creams.
(ii) Unpigmented Foundation creams: These creams do not contain pigments in the formulation.
Ingredients used:
- Humectant and lanolin- They cause retention of powder on the skin.
- Mineral oil- It improves powder adhesion to the skin.
- Isopropyl myristate, butyl stearate and ester- They also improves adhesion power due to their low surface tension property.
- Pigments like titanium dioxide, talc, calamine- They impart color.
E.g. of formula
Lanolin, cetyl alcohol, stearic acid and potassium hydroxide are heated to a temperature of about 75°C in one container. This is oily phase.
In another container, water and propylene glycol are heated to same temperature i.e., 75°C. Preservatives should be dissolved in water before heating is carried out. This is aqueous phase.
Then slowly aqueous phase is added to oily phase along with continuous stirring until the preparation becomes cold. 4. Perfume is added to the preparation when the above mixture reaches a temperature of 35°C.
Finally the preparation is passed through a triple roller mill for milling purpose.
NIGHT & MASSAGE CREAM
HAND & BODY CREAM
ALL PURPOSE CREAM
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