COSMETIC PREPARATION: Eye Shadows

EYE SHADOW: Formulation & Preparation

Link for video explaination of this topic 👇👇

https://youtu.be/F_1sSuInsAg

INTRODUCTION

Eye shadows are available in the market to add dimension and depth to the eyes, make eyes bigger and attractive thereby drawing attention to the eye color or eye appearance. These are designed to apply to eyelids and below eyebrows. 

Eyeshadows are available in the form of creams, sticks and powder either pressed or loose.

Cream eyeshadows are anhydrous emulsions prepared by using oils thickened with either waxes or clay gelling agents. Anhydrous cream eyeshadow is called as cream-to-powder eyeshadow because it glides onto the eyelids in a cream form and then transform into a super soft powder.

Eyeshadow sticks are prepared from oils, waxes and texturizing agentsand colors are dispersed in the same blend. They have a softcream-like texture and glide smoothly onto the eyelids. 

Powder eyeshadows, either loose or pressed type, are the most popular types. They are applied onto the upper eyelid by lightly stroking a fine brush or a soft sponge-tipped applicator, across the skin.

FORMULATION

Fillers: provide a base for pigments, also helps in diluting the color, e.g. talc.

Absorbents: used to increase the overall density of the powders, to make them easier for compression, provide matte effect and absorb liquids, e.g. starch, kaolin and calcium carbonate.

Binders: powder binders are used to hold powder particles and provide adherence to skin, e.g. starches. Liquid binders are used as emollients and to disperse pigments, e.g. mineral oil, silicone oils and isopropyl myristate.

Thickeners: used to stabilize the formula, and helps in adherence to the lid, e.g. waxes, clays and natural gums.

Emollients: to maintain the required consistency of formulations, e.g. palm oil, jojoba oil, castor oil and panthenol.

Colorants: used to provide dramatic effects on eye, e.g., iron oxides for brown and black shade, chromium oxide for green shade, ultramarine for blue shade and titanium dioxide for white shade.

Preservatives: to prevent attack of microorganisms, e.g. parabens.

EXAMPLE OF FORMULATION

METHOD OF PREPARATION

The method of preparation of cream type of eyeshadows includes mixing of all ingredients,followed by heating. After heating pearls and the pigments are homogenously distributed in the hot mixture, cool, and fill it into an appropriate case.

For formulation of eyeshadow stick, first homogeneous mixture is prepared using pigmented powder with white or off-white components(called as base) like talc blending and grinding.This step is known as extension. After extension of pigments,other white bases are mixed together.Then, fragrances if present, are added to a homogenous mix.The blend is sprayed onto the powder with mixing. Pearls are added and mixed at last. The powder mixture is then ready for compression. 

The powder eyeshadows are prepared by the compound powder formulation method.