COSMETIC PREPARATIONS: Mascara

MASCARA FORMULATION & PREPARATION

Link for explaination video on this topic👇👇👇

https://youtu.be/F_1sSuInsAg

Various eye makeup products are:

• Mascara
• Kajal
• Eye liner
• Eye shadows

DEFINATION OF MASCARA

Mascara is a cosmetic commonly used to enhance the eyelashes. It may darken, thicken, lengthen, and/or define the eyelashes.

TYPES

Cake mascara was the first eye makeup product available in the market in 1920s and is still present in the today’s market. It has a waxy touch and is used for apply into the eyelashes by wetting an applicator wand, and rub it onto the surface of the mascara cake to pick up the product, and then apply over the lashes. 

Water-resistant liquid mascara (cream mascara) is formulated inthe form of O/W emulsions by using polymers, waxes, pigments and other components. It is an advanced type of cake mascara, which already includes water. 

Water-proof liquid mascaras are anhydrous formulations, which are prepared by dispersing the wax in non-aqueous solvent. The non-aqueous solvent provides a waterproofing effect andat the same time helps in quick drying of the formulation. 

IDEAL CHARACTERISTICS OF MASCARA

• Non-irritant , non-toxic and non-allergic
• pH should be equal to that of human tear
• Should be dermatological safe
• Long lasting effect
• Good coverage property
• Water resistance
• Dry quickly on application
• Ease in application and remove without hurting the skin/eye
• Adhere firmly to eyelashes and eyelids without brittleness and tackiness
• No clumping and flakiness in mascara
• Good gliding property

MASCARA FORMULATION

1. Solvent: Solvents act as a base/vehicle and help in delivery of other ingredients. Non-aqueous solvents are used in water-proof mascaras whereas anhydrous raw materials are used in water-resistant type of mascaras. Thus, water-resistant mascara,contains water as the primary solvent. Other solvents include propylene glycol, glycerin and sorbitol.Water-proofing solvents include hydrocarbons (polyisobutene and isododecane), silicones (cyclomethicone) and paraffin distillates.
2. Structurant: Structurants provides an optimal and creamy texture to the formulations, which helps in gliding onto the eyelashes. They are also helps in maintaining the viscosity of the formulations and known as consistency materials. Examples include waxes(beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ozokerite wax) and cetyl alcohol.
3. Thickeners: Thicker increases the viscosity thereby improving the stability and texture of the eye formulations. The examples include waxes (beeswax, carnauba wax and candelilla wax), clays (bentonite clay) cellulose derivatives (hydroxyethyl cellulose), gums(arabic gum and xanthan gum),acrylates copolymers, and some emulsifiers having thickening properties (stearic acid).
4. Emulsifiers: Emulsifiers are the important excipients in both types of mascaras. They help in stabilizing the two immiscible phases of formulation and prevent phase separation.The nonionic emulsifiers are generally used like glyceryl stearate, steareth-2 and isoceteth.
5. Colorants: Colorants are very important ingredients in every cosmetic preparation since users buy mascara to highlight or color their eyelashes. All color additives are not approved for sensitive area of eye. The most commonly used colors are brown, black and blue.
6. Film-formers: They promote adhesion of the mascara on the eyelashes and also helps in film formation. Examples include gums (Arabic and xanthum gums), cellulosic polymers (hydroxyethyl cellulose), acrylates copolymers and others (polyvinylpyrrolidine, polyvinyl alcohol, vinyl alcohol-polyvinyl pyrrolidone copolymer and carboxy methyl cellulose).
7. Preservative: Preservativess are used to provide protection against environmental and microbial contamination,mainly in water-based preparations.The examples include potassium sorbate, phenoxyethanol and parabens.
8. Antioxidants: Antioxidants are used to prevent rancidification of fixed oils and waxes.The best examples are vitamin E, butylated hydroxytoluene, and butylated hydroxyanisole.
9. Chelating agent: It helps to maintain product stability by reacting with metal ions. Ethylene-diamine-tetra acetic acid (EDTA) and its derivatives, like disodium EDTA And tetrasodium EDTA.
10. Emollients: They are used in combination with some waxes to maintain the required consistency of the formulations. Emollients used in mascara are palm oil, jojoba oil, castor oil, panthenol and provitamin B5.