COSMETIC PREPARATIONS: Lipstick

 LIPSTICK INTRODUCTION & FORMULATION

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INTRODUCTION

Lipstick may be defined as dispersion of the colouring matter in a base consisting of a suitable blend of oils, fats and waxes with suitable perfumes and flavours moulded in the form of sticks to impart attractive gloss and colour, when applied on lips. 

The ideal requirements for the formation of a good lipstick may be as follows: 

• It should efficiently cover lips with colour and impart a gloss which would last long. 

• It should be able to maintain the intensity of colour without any alteration in the degree of its shade. 

• It should be able to adhere firmly to the lips and should not provide any greasy appearance. 

• It should possess good thixotropic property so as to deposit the colour with minimum pressure. 

• It should show a smear proof coloring effect. 

• It should possess required plasticity and be able to maintain all the properties throughout the storage period. 

• It should not be gritty. 

• It should be easily dried. 

• The stick should possess even firmness and should maintain its strength at varying temperatures up to 55°C. 

• The stick should not dry or crumble easily. 

• The lipstick should possess a pleasant fragrance and a good flavour. 

• Should be safe and non-irritating to the lips. 

• Result in blooming or sweating of the lips. 

COMPOSITIONS

1. The Solid Components/waxes: the solid components are responsible for the final

structure of the product by solidifying the liquid matrix. The materials required for attaining a 

reasonable body, hardness, melting point and shrinkage necessary for the easy release of the 

mould are together referred to as natural waxes. The solid components of the formulation are mostly natural waxes which may be classified as 

follows: 

(a) The hydrocarbon waxes: Example: White bees wax.

 (b) The mineral waxes: Example: Ozokerite, ceresine.

(c) Hard waxes: Example: Carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hard paraffin etc. 

(d) Micro crystalline waxes 

2. The Liquid Components: The liquid components are mostly constituted by the oils such as mineral oil, vegetable oil, castor oil, alcohol etc. The properties of the oils should be as follows: 

(i) It should possess good dissolution properties in order to dissolve all the bromo acids. 

(ii) It should possess an optimum viscosity range. 

(iii) It should be colourless, odourless and tasteless. 

(iv) It should be non-toxic and non-irritating. 

(v) It should be easily compatible and stable. 

The most commonly used liquid components may be as follows: 

Mineral Oils: Blend of hydrocarbons

Vegetable Oils: The vegetable oils used may be sesame oil and olive oil. 

Castor Oil: It is obtained from the seeds of the castor plant, Ricinus communis. 

Butyl Stearates: They are useful for the dispersion of colour.

Propylene Glycol: It is non-toxic and possesses a sweet taste. 

Water: It is used in minor quantities in order to dissolve the colour. 

Silicone Fluid: It is mostly used to aid in mould release.

Isopropyl Maleate (IPM): It is used in concentration of 2.3% to increase lip gloss. 

3. The Softening Agents: They are used to increase the spread ability by softening the lipstick. The most commonly used softening agents include:

Anhydrous Lanolin: It is used in low concentration of about 0.25% in order to impart gloss, softness, emolliency and protection to the lips. 

Lanolin: It is used in minor quantities in order to improve the covering properties of the film.

Cocoa Butter: It is due to its good emollient property. 

Petrolatum: It is added mainly to enhance the gloss. 

Lecithin: It is used in minor quantities to impart smoothness and emollient effect.

4. Colouring Agents: Colour may be imparted to the lips either by staining the lip with a dye stuff colour or by covering the lips with coloring layers. The colours used in the formulation of lipsticks are of two types: 

(a) Soluble Colours: They are dye stuff agents which are easily soluble in oil, water and alcohol. 

(b) Insoluble Colours: They are organic or inorganic pigments which are insoluble. 

Properties of Colouring Agents: 

• They should impart good opacity to the lips by imparting good colour. 
• They should he easily and uniformly miscible with the oils used. 
• The colours must he certified with the F, D and C grade. 
•  They should possess very low content of impurities such as arsenic, lead etc,. 
• The commonly used colourants for lipsticks: 
• Carmine
•  Dye Stuff Stains: Eosin dye, acid eosin dye etc.
• Pigmented Stains
• Lakes: Aluminium lakes, barium or calcium lakes, strontium lakes. 

5. Pearlescent Pigments: They are used to impart a pearl like appearance to the product when applied on the lips. Example: Bismuth oxychloride in 70 % castor oil may also provide a lustrous look. 

6. Opacifying Agent: It is used for opacifying or whitening of lipsticks. It can also alter the basic shade of the pigment. Various shades can he obtained by, varying the proportions. Example: Titanium Dioxide. 

7. Perfumeries: Light floral fragrances can be used in lipsticks. They should be tasteless, non-irritating and compatible. Example: rose oil, cinnamon oil, lavender oil etc. The fruity flavours that cover fatty odour of the oily waxes may also be used. 

8. Miscellaneous Agents: They include the following: 

(a) Preservatives: They are used to increase life period of the product by reducing the microbial growth. Example of preservatives such as methyl paraben and propyl paraben may be commonly used. The concentration of the preservative should not exceed 0.1%. 

(b) Antioxidants: The ingredients used in the formulation may be susceptible to oxidation. This may result in the degradation of the product. Thus, antioxidants are added in order to prevent oxidation of the ingredients. Example of commonly used antioxidants are butylated hydroxyl anisole (BHA), butylated hydroxyl toluene (BHT), tocopherol, propyl gallate, butylated hydroxyl quinines etc. 

(c) Flavouring Agents: They are included in order to impart good flavor to the product. Example: spearmint oil, cinnamon oil etc. Along with the flavouring agents, sodium saccharin and the ammonium glycyrrhizate may also be used in order to improve the taste. 

Example of formula:

• If a solvent is used for the dissolution of bromo acid, the solution is first prepared and set aside until required. 
• If commercial colour pastes are not being used, then lake colours are first dispersed by mixing with suitable quantity of castor oil. 
• The colour paste obtained is passed through a triple roller mill until it becomes smooth and free from agglomerates and gritty particles. 
• The colour mixture is then mixed with the bromo acid mixture. 
• All the ingredients of the base are identified and arranged in the increasing order of their melting points. 
• This mixture is remilled until it is perfectly smooth. 
• Preservatives and anti-oxidant are dissolved in remaining oil and are added to the mixture. 
• Finally, the perfume is added and the mass is stirred thoroughly, but gently to avoid entrapment of air. 
• Automatic ejection mould is preferred for the large scale production. 
• The mould is lubricated with liquid paraffin or isopropyl myristate before pouring the mass into the mould. 
• It is important to prevent settling down of the coloring mass when the moulds are chilled. Lubrication facilitates easy removal of sticks.